“If it grows together, it goes together” is an old food and wine pairing adage that applies especially well to Italian cuisine. On the outskirts of Rome, the soft, volcanic hills of the Lazio district for years produced undistinguished wines in bulk for the city’s tourist trade. Today, inspired Lazio vintners are creating crisp whites and supple reds from local grapes that not only drink beautifully with classic Roman fare but also offer complexity beyond their modest price tags. As is true throughout Italy, traditional wines and local cuisines have evolved in tandem over centuries to create fabulous, effortless pairings. Take a tabletop tour of Italian regions with these classic matches.

Region: Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Wine: La Tunella Rjgialla, Colli Orientali del Friuli, 2009
Friuli, located in Italy’s northeast corner along the Austrian and Slovenian borders, is a treasure trove of crisp, minerally whites. Made from indigenous grapes like Friulano, Pinot Grigio and Ribolla Gialla, they are delicious with salty meats, green vegetables, herb-laden pastas, sausages and seafood dishes. Try La Tunella Rjgialla with a fragrant Italian Seafood Stew .

Region: Tuscany
Wine: Casa alle Vacche, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, 2009
Tuscany is best known for the bold, pasta-friendly reds of its Chianti region. Less well known but worth exploring are Tuscany’s white wines—particularly Vernacchia di San Gimignano. Produced only in the vineyards surrounding Siena’s hilltop town of San Gimignano, this juicy, nutty white wine has been famous since Dante’s time. Bursting with food-friendly acidity, it’s a terrific accompaniment to rich or herby pastas, salads, soups and other vegetable dishes, and is delicious with Crostini with White Beans, Garlic and Tuscan Kale.

Region: Lazio
Wine: Marco Carpineti, Tufaliccio, Lazio Rosso, 2009
Not many tourists venture beyond Rome to explore Lazio’s wines, but that’s a shame. Boutique vintner Marco Carpineti is making some of the region’s best, which include reds made from blends of grapes native to other Italian regions. This smoky blend of organically grown Sangiovese and Montepulciano shows the potential of Lazio’s wines. Its deep flavors and firm tannins make it a good match for Roman-Style Meatballs with Gnocchi alla Romana and other substantial fare, from roasts to hearty stews.

Region: Piedmont
Wine: Dacapo Barbera d'Asti Sanbastian, 2007
Native to Piedmont, Barbera is one of the most food-friendly grapes on the planet. Made in a broad range of styles, from light and rustic to richly fruity, Barbera’s crisp acidity and soft tannins make it a fantastic partner to everything from rustic vegetarian risottos to rich pasta, poultry, pork and red meat dishes, including Agnolotti with Brown Butter & Rosemary and Wild Mushroom Risotto with Peas.

Region: Abruzzo
Wine: Anfra Nero dei Due Mori, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 2006
Abruzzo’s signature grape is Montepulciano, a variety that yields medium- to full-bodied reds loaded with ripe black-fruit flavors. Top vintners are harnessing the potential of the grape in polished, intense red wines whose spicy flavors and velvety tannins make them ideal matches for stews, chops, roasts, sausages and other hearty fare. Try Montepulciano d’Abruzzo with dishes that have an earthy edge, like Lamb Chops with Garlic and Rosemary or Braised Chicken with Mushrooms.

Region: Piedmont
Wine: A.V. Palladino Barolo, 2004
The reigning red grape of Piedmont is Nebbiolo, the variety responsible for two of the world’s most long-lived and exalted red wines: Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolos are typically aged for many years before they’re released, which softens and mellows their astringent tannins. Still, these wines are best paired with foods that offer a rich counterbalance of fat and protein. Braises such as Easy Braised Short Ribs, stews, richly sauced roasts and aged cheeses are all ideal.