Gnocchi Parisienne

To make the dough, in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, combine 2 cups (16 fl. oz./500 ml) water, 12 Tbs. (1 1/2 sticks) (6 oz./185 g) of the butter and 3 1/4 tsp. salt and bring to a boil, then remove from the heat. Add 2 1/2 cups (10 1/2 oz./300 g) of the flour all at once. Using a wooden spoon, stir vigorously until a ball of dough forms, about 1 minute, then stir until the dough begins to leave a film on the bottom and sides of the pan, about 1 minute more. Stir in 3/4 cup (3 oz./90 g) of the cheese until combined.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the flat beater. Stir the dough on low speed to release steam and heat, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until incorporated before adding another. Beat in the remaining 1 cup (4 1/4 oz./120 g) flour, then the chives. Cover and refrigerate the dough until chilled, about 1 hour.

To make the gnocchi, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. While the water is heating, dust your hands and the work surface with flour. Using a bench scraper or a knife, divide the dough into 6 equal portions. Using your hands, roll each portion into a long cylinder, adding more flour if needed. Cut the dough into 1-inch (2.5-cm) lengths, then sprinkle them with a little flour and toss so they don't stick together. Carefully transfer the gnocchi to a baking sheet

When the water comes to a boil, drop in all of the gnocchi at once and simmer until slightly firm, about 2 minutes. The gnocchi should rise to the surface as they cook. Using a spider, transfer the gnocchi to a baking sheet or a large bowl. Set aside.

To make the Mornay sauce, in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the cream to a simmer, about 5 minutes. Cook, stirring continuously, until the cream reduces by about half, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the cheese until smooth. Stir in the salt and season to taste with pepper. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.

To assemble, in a large fry pan over high heat, melt 4 Tbs. (1/2 stick) (2 oz./60 g) of the butter. Cook until the foam subsides and the butter begins to brown, about 2 minutes, occasionally scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add half of the gnocchi and 1 Tbs. of the sage and cook, tossing occasionally, until the gnocchi are slightly browned and heated through, about 3 minutes. Transfer the gnocchi mixture to a medium bowl; set aside.

Wipe the pan clean, then repeat with the remaining 4 Tbs. (1/2 stick) (2 oz./60 g) butter, gnocchi and 1 Tbs. sage. If you like, add the ham at this point and cook until slightly caramelized.

To finish, return all of the gnocchi mixture to the pan, reduce the heat to medium and add up to 1/4 cup (2 fl. oz./60 ml) water, 1 Tbs. at a time, stirring constantly, until the gnocchi are glazed, 20 to 30 seconds. Spoon the gnocchi into a large gratin dish and sprinkle with the remaining 3/4 cup (3 oz./90 g) cheese and more chives. Top with the ham (if you did not cook it in the pan) and drizzle with the Mornay sauce. Serves 2 to 4.

Recipe courtesy of Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, chef/owners of Frenchette, New York City