Wild Mushroom Shepherd’s Pie
Award-winning blogger and cookbook author Deb Perelman says she always wanted to make a shepherd’s pie with a wild-mushroom stew underneath that had a depth of flavor that would reverberate from all of your taste buds—not as a criticism of the stick-to-your-ribs ground-beef-and-mashed-potatoes gold standard, but because the intersection of mushrooms and potatoes is her family’s comfort-food happy place. Amping up the flavor with rehydrated porcini, a dark broth, dry sherry, a tiny bit of tomato paste and sherry vinegar takes a simple mushroom sauté and makes it so sublime, she’s not sure they ever want to go back to the original. This casserole is the perfect meatless main for vegetarians at your Thanksgiving table.
Ingredients:
For the filling:
- 1/2 cup (1/2 oz./15 g) dried mushrooms, such as porcini or a mix
- 1 cup (8 fl. oz./235 ml) boiling water
- 2 Tbs. olive oil
- 1 large onion, diced
- 2 medium carrots, diced
- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 lb. (about 1 kg) fresh mushrooms, in chunks (a mix of shiitake, elephant ear and cremini, or all cremini)
- 2 Tbs. dry sherry
- 1 Tbs. tomato paste
- 1 cup (8 fl. oz./235 ml) vegetable, chicken or beef stock
For the lid:
- 1 3/4 to 2 lb. (800 to 900 g) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces
- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
- 6 Tbs. (3/4 stick) (3 oz./85 g) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
- 1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz./55 g) crème fraîche or sour cream
- 2/3 cup (5 fl. oz./115 ml) milk or buttermilk
Smoked or regular paprika and/or 1 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish
Directions:
To prepare the dried mushrooms, in a small bowl, combine the dried mushrooms and boiling water. Set aside for 30 minutes (while you continue with the other steps), then drain, reserving the soaking water. Chop the rehydrated mushrooms into small bits. If the soaking water has any sand or grit at the bottom, pour it through a fine-mesh strainer.
Meanwhile, prepare the lid: Place the potatoes in a medium pot and cover them with a couple inches of salted water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are easily pierced in the center with a knife or skewer, about 10 minutes. Drain, then either rice the potatoes into a large bowl, or place them in a large bowl and mash with a fork or potato masher. Add the butter, 1 tsp. salt and pepper, to taste, and stir. The heat from the potatoes should melt the butter. Add the crème fraîche and milk and stir to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Set aside.
Preheat an oven to 400°F (200°C).
To cook the vegetables, in a large pan (4-quart/4-l, or an 11-inch/28-cm deep fry pan or braiser), heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, salt and pepper and sauté until the vegetables begin to color, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add the fresh mushrooms, salt and pepper, increase the heat to high and cook the mushrooms until they brown and soften, releasing their juices, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the sherry and scrape up any stuck bits. Add the tomato paste and stir to combine. Add the rehydrated mushrooms and their soaking water, plus the stock. Season again if needed and simmer over medium heat until the mushrooms are coated in a thick sauce, about 10 minutes.
Bake the pie: If your pan is oven-safe, you can bake the pie in it. If not, transfer the mushroom mixture to a 2- to 3-quart (2- to 3-l) baking dish. Scoop the potatoes in large spoonfuls all over the top of the mushrooms, then use the back of your spoon to spread them smooth all the way to the edges, forming a seal.
Bake until the potatoes are lightly browned on top, 25 to 30 minutes. Garnish with a dusting of paprika and/or parsley. Scoop and serve. Serves 6 to 8.
Do ahead: This keeps for 5 days in the fridge and longer in the freezer. Rewarm it in a 350°F (180°C) oven for 20 to 25 minutes.
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen Every Day by Deb Perelman (Random House, 2017)
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