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A Good Mash

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Meredith Hayden, a recipe developer and former private chef, has been preparing the same mashed potato recipe since culinary school. This involves peeling potatoes, boiling them, passing them through a potato ricer, and then steeping the milk and butter. “While, yes, this gives you a perfectly smooth and creamy potato puree, it also takes hours to prepare and creates more dishes than I care to wash in one night,” she explains. “So I dumped the perfect potatoes for this lovable lumpy mash that puts me, and my time, first.” Pair this mash with Meredith’s hearty braised short ribs for a dinner party during the winter holidays. Both recipes are included in her debut cookbook, The Wishbone Kitchen Cookbook.

Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 15 minutes
Servings 4 to 6

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 lb. (750 g) baby yellow potatoes, scrubbed
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 3/4 cup (6 fl. oz./180 ml) heavy cream
  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup (2 oz./60 g) crème fraîche
  • 1/4 cup (1/3 oz./10 g) chopped fresh chives

Directions

Place the potatoes in a medium or large saucepan, cover with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of cold water and add 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer until the potatoes are fork-tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

While the potatoes simmer, combine the cream and butter in a small saucepan. Cook over low heat until the butter melts. Keep warm over very low heat until you’re ready to add to the potatoes, stirring occasionally so that the bottom doesn’t scorch.

Drain the potatoes and return them to the pan. Add the cream and butter mixture plus 1 tsp. salt and a couple cracks of pepper. Use a potato masher to mash the potatoes until creamy, but don’t overmix. Use a rubber spatula to fold in the crème fraîche until well combined, then fold in the chives. Taste and season with more salt and/or pepper, if needed. Serves 4 to 6.

Adapted from The Wishbone Kitchen Cookbook by Meredith Hayden (Ten Speed Press, 2025)

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