Kabocha Squash and Potato Croquettes with Snowy Cabbage

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In this recipe from Sylvan Mishima Brackett, chef/owner at San Francisco’s Izakaya Rintaro, kabocha squash and potatoes are flavored with Japanese curry powder before being formed into croquettes and deep-fried for an irresistible appetizer. At the restaurant, they make their own panko from pain de mie, a soft, slightly sweet loaf made by a local bakery, but you can use purchased panko instead. This recipe makes a big batch—about 40 generously sized croquettes—but they will disappear quickly when served at a party. You can divide the recipe in half if you like.

Prep Time 60 minutes
Cook Time 70 minutes
Servings 40

Ingredients

  • 1 small head green cabbage
  • 4 radishes
  • 1/2 kabocha squash, about 1 lb. (500 g), halved and seeded
  • 2 Tbs. vegetable oil, plus more for brushing and frying
  • 3 lb. (1.5 kg) russet potatoes
  • 3 yellow onions, diced
  • Kosher salt
  • 2 cups (10 oz./310 g) all-purpose flour
  • 5 eggs, beaten
  • 3 1/2 cups (8 oz./250 g) panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
  • 1 Tbs. sugar
  • 1 Tbs. Japanese curry powder, preferably S&B
  • Lemon wedges for serving
  • Tonkatsu sauce for serving

Directions

Preheat an oven to 450°F (230°C).

Using a sharp mandoline, shred the cabbage as finely as possible. Place in a bowl with ice water, then drain well. Cover with a damp paper towel and set aside. Very thinly slice the radishes and place in a separate bowl. Cover with another damp paper towel.

Place the squash half, cut side up, on a baking sheet and brush lightly with oil. Transfer to the oven and roast until tender and easily pierced with a knife, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle.

While the squash is cooking, scrub the potatoes well and place them, unpeeled, in a large pot. Add cold salted water to cover the potatoes by 3 inches (7.5 cm). Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes. Drain well in a colander and set aside until cool enough to handle. Using a paring knife, peel the potatoes and discard the skins. Place the potatoes in a large bowl and, using a potato masher, mash the potatoes coarsely, leaving a few small chunks. Set aside.

Using a large spoon, scoop the flesh of the squash into the bowl with the mashed potatoes. Discard the squash skin. Set aside.

In a large sauté pan over medium heat, warm the 2 Tbs. oil. Add the onions and 1 1/2 tsp. salt and sauté until the onions are somewhat tender and translucent but not caramelized, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the flour, eggs and panko in separate shallow bowls.

Transfer the onion mixture to the bowl with the potato and squash. Add the sugar, curry powder and 1 Tbs. salt and stir until thoroughly combined. Taste and season with more salt if desired.

Using your hands, form the potato mixture into oblong patties about 2 inches by 1 inch (5 cm by 2.5 cm). As each patty is formed, coat it with flour, then the egg, and then roll it in the panko to coat it generously. Set each patty on a baking sheet as you finish forming the rest.

Fill a Dutch oven or deep sauté pan one-third full with oil and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-frying thermometer registers 320°F (160°C). Line a baking sheet with two layers of paper towels.

Working in batches, fry the croquettes, turning them occasionally, until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or spider, transfer the croquettes to the prepared baking sheet to drain.  

To serve, pile the cabbage on a large platter and top with the radish slices. Arrange the croquettes on top of the cabbage and arrange the lemon wedges alongside. Serve with the tonkatsu sauce for dipping. Makes about 40 croquettes.

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