Classic Gougères

Preheat an oven to 400°F (200°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, combine the water, milk, butter, salt and cayenne. Bring to a boil and cook until the butter melts. Remove from the heat and quickly add the flour all at once, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon until completely blended. Place the pan over medium-high heat and beat until the mixture forms a mass in the center of the pan and the pan bottom begins to be coated with the cooked mixture, 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove from the heat and transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater. Let the dough cool for 2 minutes. Add 1 of the eggs to the mixture and beat on medium speed until completely blended, then beat in the remaining eggs, one at a time and beating well after each addition. The mixture may look curdled at some point but keep beating until the mixture is smooth. Add the Gruyère and beat until thoroughly blended.

To form the gougères, spoon the paste into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip 1/2 inch (12 mm) in diameter. (If you don't have a pastry bag and tip, use a teaspoon.) Pipe mounds of the paste about 1 inch (12 mm) in diameter and 1/2 inch high (2.5 cm) onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing the mounds 2 inches (5 cm) apart.

Sprinkle the Parmesan over the tops of the gougères, pressing down gently so that the Parmesan adheres but taking care not to mash them down. Bake until the gougères are lightly browned and nearly doubled in size, 22 to 24 minutes. Transfer the gougères to wire racks. Serve warm or at room temperature, piled into a large bowl or passed on trays.

Adapted from Williams Sonoma Collection Series, Christmas, by Carolyn Miller (Simon & Schuster, 2003)